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Sunday, May 30, 2010

Cooking for the Stars and Old Fashioned Berry Crisp

by Linda


   Professional cooks love to talk about their successful dinner parties and catered events, but what about when a gig goes awry? Back when I cooked professionally in the Santa Ynez Valley, I did some catering and private chefing. Here is my tale of a less than spectacular salad and main course, that was saved by a good Old Fashioned Berry Crisp and our family's Lemon Ice Cream.
   The Santa Ynez Valley, about a two hour drive north of Los Angeles and just over the Los Padres mountain range from Santa Barbara, is a network of small communities, including Solvang, Los Olivos, Ballard, Buellton and Santa Ynez, that gives refuge to celebrities who seek privacy. They buy huge ranches situated in glorious landscapes of pastures and rolling hills accented by ancient sprawling oak trees and expansive vineyards.




   One summer day in 1995, I received a call from Ray Stark who had my name recommended to him through a mutual friend. Ray Stark was a famous Hollywood producer back in the day, and owned Rancho Corral de Quati, a 300-acre ranch in Los Olivos where he was a breeder of Thoroughbred racehorses. In his days in Hollywood, Ray worked with some of the biggest names in the business, and he amassed a fortune before he died in 2004.
   I was about to meet a few of his famous friends, because Ray told me he was planning a casual dinner at his ranch for a few guests, one of whom would be Kirk Douglas accompanied by his wife, Anne. Ray let me know that he did not want the menu to be too fancy. He was fairly vague as to his menu desires other than to request fish as an entree for eight, which honestly threw me a little bit, because I knew the timing on cooking fish for a group of eight would be tricky. I can remember feeling the pressure was on. I would meet the challenge. I had hit the big time. I was going to be making dinner for Kirk Douglas—how exciting!



   On the day of the dinner party, I showed up at the ranch with a car full of everything that I would need for the evening, including my boyfriend Richard in tow, who graciously agreed to act as bartender when Ray made the last minute request that I bring someone to circulate and pour wine. Little did Richard know that he would uncork a bottle of Château Lafite Rothschild, that afternoon which he poured a little too liberaly in the beginning until he was given a "little coaching" on the matter by the guest who brought the wine for all to try.
   While I was unpacking all of the food and gear, Kirk Douglas breezily walked into the kitchen with a warm smile and offered me his hand saying, "Hello, I am Kirk Douglas." Flustered doesn't even begin to cover how I felt although I managed to return his smile. I hope I acted like a normal human being even though I was alone in a room with a living legend. "I think Ray keeps the Stoli in here," Kirk said as he proceeded to open the freezer compartment. Quite unassumingly he prepared himself a drink, acting as if we were old friends. I remember thinking that if I were ever famous, I would want to behave like that man. I liked him instantly.
   The rest of the invitees included the very endearing John Forsythe (who had become widowed the year before), and his dinner date turned out to be a client of mine (a nice surprise), Bernie Taupin (longtime collaborator with Elton John), and his wife at the time, Stephanie Haymes, an owner of the opulent Cicada restaurant in Los Angeles, and rounding out the party, Ray's girlfriend.
   My first mistake in choosing the menu was deciding on a leafy salad tossed with a spicy fresh garlic vinaigrette and accented with red nastursiums and fried sliced garlic. Note to self, not everyone loves garlic as much as I do. Especially if most of your guests are over the age of sixty. Apparently folks don't really enjoy munching on edible flowers—then or now. The individually plated salads were gorgeous but went mostly uneaten by some of the guests, much to my disappointment. Kirk actually told me, in a kind manner, that he didn't eat garlic, which was a cue for me, the one with the rapidly sinking heart, that he's wasn't going to appreciate the entrée either.



   I remember vividly, and embarassingly, that Stephanie was less than thrilled with my down-home fare. Years later I can still feel the red hot intensity of the color rising from my chest up to my cheeks when she turned up her nose at my Halibut Provençal resplident with fresh tomatoes, kalamata olives, fresh oregano and of course, more garlic. Her comment to another guest was that her chef was "doing marvelous things" with infused oils. Looking back, it wasn't that thrilling of a dish, and went mostly unremarked upon by the guests.
   In spite of my ego taking a beating that night, I still remember how fun it was for me to be able to listen in on the dinner table chatter about Hollywood and the gossip of the day. I am pretty sure that particular occasion is as close as I will ever get to hobnobbing with the rich and famous. Although, if there is ever a next time, I hope to be handed the over-poured glass of Château Lafite Rothschild.
   In the end, I did save the day. Dessert to the rescue. I redeemed my lackluster dinner with the presentation of a juicy, ooey-gooey Old Fashioned Berry Crisp served with our family's much beloved—by everyone who has every tasted it—homemade Lemon Ice Cream. I still remember the gleam in Kirk Douglas' eyes when I confirmed that, in fact, yes I did make the ice cream myself. I could lift my head proudly again when he asked for "a little bit more of that amazing ice cream". Yep, that's right, Catherine Zeta-Jones, the recipe follows. You too can bring the homemade Lemon Ice Cream gleam to your father-in-law's eyes.
   A couple of months later I received a call from Ray wanting to know if I would cook, at the last minute, for a small dinner that he was having for another friend of his—a certain Sylvester Stallone. I took a big gulp and graciously declined the offer. I am ashamed to admit it, but I adhered to the age old proverb: If you can't stand the heat, get out of the kitchen (at least when Hollywood royalty is involved.)



Old Fashioned Fruit Crisp

   You can use fresh fruit in this recipe, but I have been able to discern very little difference in the finished product substituting frozen berries. So my rule of thumb is to use what ever is the highest quality for the least expense. Make sure to bake the crisp long enough, since the berries need to thicken from the cooking and not a thickener like flour or tapioca, and the topping needs to brown and be crunchy.

For the topping:

3 cups all purpose flour
2 cups brown sugar, packed
1-1/2 cups butter, melted
1/2 cup oats
1 Tbsp cinnamon
6 cups mixed frozen fruit: raspberry, blackberry, blueberries, pitted cherries, peaches, nectarines
1/2 cup granulated sugar

Procedure:



1. Arrange two oven racks so one sits in the lower third of the oven and the other in the upper third. Place a cookie sheet on the top rack. Preheat oven to 325°F. Grease 12"x17"x3" baking dish.

2. Mix together flour, brown sugar, melted butter, oats and cinnamon. Lightly sprinkle some of mixture in bottom of baking dish, so that the bottom of the dish is just barely covered. Do not press down.

3. Place the first half of the fruit into the baking dish. I like to mix bags of frozen berries. A favorite comination of mine is boyensberries or blackberries, mixed with blueberries and raspberries. Sprinkle the top of the first half of the berries with 1/4 cup of the sugar. Layer on the rest of the berry and sprinkle with the remaining sugar.

4. Top the fruit with remaining crumb mixture. Do not press is down. Keep layering it on until all of the topping used and is mounded up thickly. It will settle during baking. Bake for about 90 minutes, or until the top is puffed and cracked and juices are thick and bubbly.

5. Serve warm with whipped cream or ice cream, preferably with homemade Lemon Ice Cream.

6. Rewarm portioned leftovers in a microwave for 30 seconds or bake in oven at 350°F until fragrant, about 10-15 minutes. Leftovers also freeze well.


Sunday, May 23, 2010

Wilkins Family Lemon Ice Cream

by Michelle


   Our mother fondly recalls her grandparents making lemon ice cream on hot summer days with the young and old taking turns cranking the dasher by hand - easily in the beginning and then increasingly more difficult -as the cream gradually thickened under the influence of the constant churning and as the rock salt lowered the temperature of the melting ice cubes. The setting was the mountains, where our great-grandparents built a general store and cabins in California's Mill Creek Canyon located east of Redlands. In the summers, mother spent days exploring the area and looking forward to the ice cream flavor of the afternoon.
   In the evenings, the folks would play cards, or the rugs would be rolled up to expose the hardwood floors. Great-grandad would play the mandolin and great-grandmother, the piano. Our mother, but a young girl at the time, would fall asleep in the rocking chair watching the adults dance the night away to a particular style of ragtime music called "cornball".

   The frozen dessert tradition continued with our mom and dad making lemon ice cream for special occasions ranging from birthday celebrations to the 4th of July. Our generation has continued on as well, pairing the divine concoction with Old Fashioned Berry Crisp, pies, cakes and sandwiched between cookies.
   We have topped the ice cream with fresh fruit and sauces such as yummy Brandied Cherries, but in the end, we all agree that our favorite preparation is simply two scoops in a bowl eaten slowly with a spoon. The silky texture of the ice cream is heaven.
   The original ingredients include raw eggs. As we mentioned in our Caesar Salad post, the risk of getting salmonella from an egg is very low. For those with greater risk factors or concerns over using raw eggs, we have also included a "cooked custard" version that takes longer to prepare but is equally delicious.
    One last note, you can make your own fruit extracts. We made this happy discovery while preparing a Trio of Fruit Liqueurs. Simply remove a portion of the "extracted" liquid - after you discard the spent peels or fruit and before adding the simple syrup - and store in a bottle (with a tightly fitting lid) in a dark place, such as a kitchen cabinet. The extract will last indefinitely and the flavor, like the liqueur, will continue to improve with age.
    This is easily our most requested recipe. Without further ado, here are two versions of our family's much loved and sought after recipe.

Wilkins Family Lemon Ice Cream

   We learned many years ago that adding alcohol to the "bases" of homemade ice creams and sorbets lowers the freezing point of the mixture. In other words, by adding alcohol, frozen desserts keep well in the freezer without becoming too icey or difficult to scoop. With alcohol in a recipe, be warned, more is not better. If you add too much the end result will likely taste boozy and in the case with frozen desserts, will not harden properly, so please be careful with your measurments.
   Finally, beware of using store-bought Limoncello in this recipe. All of the brands we have tried are either downright awful or have a slightly metalic taste. If you are not inspired to make Limoncello, then use unflavored vodka.


Ingredients:
4 extra-large eggs, of the highest quality
1 egg yolk
6 cups half-and-half
2 cups granulated sugar
1 Tbsp plus 1 tsp vanilla extract
2 Tbsps plus 1 tsp lemon extract, or homemade
1/3 cup vodka 80% proof, or homemade Limoncello

Procedure:
1. Whisk the eggs and yolk in a mixing bowl until light and fluffy, 1-2 minutes. Whisk in the sugar, a little at a time, then continue whisking until completely blended, about 1 minute more. Pour in the half-in-half, lemon extract, vanilla extract and Limoncello or vodka.
2. Place a sieve over the mouth of the ice cream canister. Transfer the mixture, pouring through the sieve, into the canister. Freeze following the manufacturer's instructions. Yield: 2 quarts

Wilkins Family Lemon Ice Cream (Custard Base)


2 cups whipping cream
1 pint half-and-half
1-3/4 cups granulated sugar
4 extra-large eggs
3 cups whole milk
1 Tbsp plus 1 tsp vanilla extract
2 Tbsps plus 1 tsp lemon extract, or homemade
1/2 cup vodka 80% proof or homemade Limoncello

Procedure:
1. In a stainless steel saucepan, heat whipping cream until almost scalded. Meanwhile, whip eggs until blended and frothy. Add sugar to whipping cream and stir until dissolved and the mixture is thicker, about 5 minutes. Remove pan from heat.
2. Add about a cup of the sugar-cream mixture to the eggs while whisking quickly to incorporate. Then add the egg mixture to the saucepan. Whisking constantly, heat again for another 1-2 minutes until hot.
3. Through a sieve, pour mixture into a gallon container. Add milk, vanilla extract, lemon extract and vodka or Limoncello. Stir well. Refrigerate until very cold, or overnight.
4. Freeze following the manufacturer's instructions. Yield: 2 quarts

Sunday, May 16, 2010

A Trio of Fruit Liqueurs: Limoncello, Fragolino and Frambolino

by Michelle


   I suspect one of the key reasons I love spending time in the kitchen is to engage in the act of transformation - working with a list of ingredients with the intention that the result will be greater than the sum of its parts. As cooks, we constantly have the opportunity to delight those that sit at our tables. Perhaps it is a bit like being a magician. Present a great dish and guests always want to know, how did you do that?
   The first time I tasted Limoncello, it was Linda's homemade concoction. The pale yellow liquid was a taste revelation. I instantly wanted to know how she made it - EXACTLY how she made it - quizzing her intricately on the ingredients and process.
   If you have not yet made a fruit liqueur, you are in for a treat. Although the actual process to combine the fruit or peels with the vodka is as easy as can be, it does require a little patience because you must wait anywhere from a week, on up to a month, for the alcohol to extract all the essences from the flavoring agents, and then again after the liqueurs are diluted with some water and sugar.
   At Linda's house, we recently found a jar of Limoncello that had mellowed for quite some time - about two years. Wondering how it would taste after resting for such a long time, we moved into investigative research mode, removing and discarding the peels, and adding sugar syrup. Happily, it tasted great.
 
   Lemon peels are resinous which requires the addition of some Everclear or 100-proof vodka to extract the flavor, whereas soft fruit does not require it because it's not difficult to break down. Once the fruit or peels have lost all color, they are removed from the alcohol, and sugar syrup is added. Limoncello benefits from additional aging after it is sweetened because the higher proof alcohols are given time to mellow. Likewise the berry liqueurs also benefit from some aging - anywhere from two weeks to six months -and will taste smoother on the palate.
   To make the Limoncello, it takes patience to carefully peel twenty lemons, but when you can extract Spring in a bottle and uncork it at a later date, we sisters think the long-term goal is worth the short-term bother. The good news is that the Strawberry and Raspberry Liqueurs do not require fresh fruit, frozen is great. If using frozen fruit, keep the fruit whole and simply combine the fruit with the vodka. In fact, because the cell structure has been compromised by freezing, you do not have to use anything stronger than regular vodka to extract the fruit. As an added bonus, thankfully, there are no pesky peels to remove. Fresh fruit, on the other hand, must be chopped into small pieces and then added to the vodka. Likewise, vanilla beans are split in half, the inside scraped into the mixture and then the pod is finely chopped and added as well.
   In our posting for Pineapple Martinis, which is made by extracting fresh pineapple and vanilla in vodka and Malibu rum, we discussed the various vodkas that are available on the market. Our vodka of choice for making liqueurs is Monopolowa of Austria that is distilled from potatoes. It is inexpensive, about $10 for a one-liter bottle, purchased at Trader Joe's. We keep the empty bottles and reuse, transferring the finished liqueurs from the jars into the bottles for aging and long-term storage. The labels soak off easily and the bottles can be stored in an orderly fashion in recycled wine boxes (or buy a case of the vodka.) Deflect the sideways glance from the clerk with a friendly smile.

 
   Fruit liqueurs are enjoyed "neat" in pretty cordial glasses, on the rocks, or mixed into a variety of cocktails and desserts, such as Wilkins Family Lemon Ice Cream. Poured into decorative bottles, the liqueurs become cherished hostess and holiday gifts. For a nice touch, include lovely cordial glasses along with the liqueur. You can typically find deals on sets of glassware at Ross and Marshalls. We also like to drop by our local thrift stores where expensive etched crystal stemware can be found at rock-bottom prices.

Limoncello: Citrus Liqueur


An impeccably clean one gallon jar with tightly-fitting lid
4 cups Everclear (151-proof)* or Grain Alcohol (ETOH)
3 750-ml Vodka 80% proof*
20 large, ripe, juicy, unwaxed, in season organic lemons** - do not use bad lemons
2 vanilla beans, split and chopped (optional and highly recommended)
3 cups granulated sugar
3 cups filtered water

Procedure:
1. Zest lemons* using a vegetable peeler (my preference) or knife, being careful to avoid the white pith, which is bitter. This takes a bit of patience, but keeping the white pith out of the alcohol is really important to the final quality o the Limoncello. Combine Everclear**, vodka and lemon zest in the jar. Set aside in a cool, dark place for at least one week, shaking the jar daily. When zest turns pale and alcohol has a deep yellow color, strain through a sieve, and return to the glass container. Discard zest.


2. Combine sugar and water in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Stir until the sugar dissolves and the syrup is clear, about 5 minutes; do not boil. Cool to room temperature.
3. Add 4 cups of the simple syrup to the infused vodka. Stir and taste. Add additional simple syrup, a little at a time, stirring well and tasting after each addition, until you have the right balance for your palette.
4. Seal the jar, and store once again in a dark place, for a week or longer, to allow the flavors mellow.
5. Pour liqueur into bottles, if you like, using a funnel. Close with corks or screw tops. The liqueur will keep indefinitely and continue to develop in flavor the longer it rests.
6. Serve at room temperature or cold from the refrigerator or very cold directly from the freezer.
* Lemons deteriorate quickly without their peels. Juice the lemons to make lemonade, or pour juice into ice-cube trays; freeze. Remove cubes and store in a resealable plastic bag in the freezer. When a recipe calls for 1-2 tablespoons of lemon juice, remove a cube, defrost (doesn't take long) and use.
** It is important to use Everclear (151-proof) to extract zest. The higher the proof of the alcohol, the faster the essence of the lemon will be extracted. If you cannot purchase Everclear in your state, exchange the Everclear and all the vodka in this recipe for 100-proof vodka.

Rifs:
1. To Make Aranciacello Orange Liqueur: Exchange organic orange peels for the lemon peels.
2. To Make Lemon Extract or Orange Extract: After straining the zest from the infused vodka, and before adding simple syrup, transfer desired amount to a impecably clean, well sealed bottle. Store in a cool, dark place. Use as needed for all recipes that call for the required citrus extract.
 
Fragolino: Strawberry Liqueur


One impeccably clean half-gallon jar with tightly-fitting lid
1 liter Vodka 80% proof
1 1-pound package frozen strawberries, preferably organic
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup filtered water

Procedure:
1. Combine vodka and strawberries in jar. Seal and store for about a week, shaking every day or so.
2. Remove strawberries and discard.
3. Combine sugar and water in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Stir until the sugar dissolves and the syrup is clear, about 5 minutes; do not boil. Cool to room temperature.
4. Add 1 cup of the simple syrup to the infused vodka. Stir and taste. Add additional simple syrup, a little at a time, stirring well and tasting after each addition, until you have the right balance for your palette.


5. Seal the jar, and store once again in a dark place, for about a week or longer, to allow the flavors to mellow.
6. Pour liqueur into bottles, if you like, using a funnel. Close with corks or screw tops. The liqueur will keep indefinitely and continue to develop in flavor the longer it rests.
7. Serve at room temperature or cold from the refrigerator or very cold directly from the freezer.

Rifs:
1. To make Strawberry Extract: After spent strawberries from the infused vodka, and before adding simple syrup, transfer desired amount to a impecably clean, well sealed bottle. Store in a cool, dark place. Use as needed for all recipes that call for the required fruit extract.

Frambolino: Raspberry Liqueur


One impeccably clean half-gallon jar with tightly-fitting lid
1 liter Vodka 80% proof
1 12-ounce package frozen raspberries, preferably organic
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup filtered water

Procedure:
1. Combine vodka and raspberries in jar. Seal and store for about a week, shaking every day or so.
2. Remove raspberries from vodka and discard.
3. Combine sugar and water in a medium saucepan over medium heat . Stir until the sugar dissolves and the syrup is clear, about 5 minutes; do not boil. Cool to room temperature.
4. Add 1 cup of the simple syrup to the infused vodka. Stir and taste. Add additional simple syrup, a little at a time, stirring well and tasting after each addition, until you have the right balance for your palette.
5. Seal the jar, and store once again in a dark place, for about a week or longer, to allow the flavors mellow.
6. Pour liqueur into bottles, if you like, using a funnel. Close with corks or screw tops. The liqueur will keep indefinitely and continue to develop in flavor the longer it rests.
7. Serve at room temperature or cold from the refrigerator or very cold directly from the freezer.

Rifs:
1. To Make Raspberry Extract: After removing spent raspberries from the infused vodka, and before adding simple syrup, transfer desired amount to a impecably clean, well sealed bottle. Store in a cool, dark place. Use as needed for all recipes that call for the required fruit extract.

Sunday, May 9, 2010

Apple Crostata

by Michelle


   Sebastopol, California is a farming community in west Sonoma County that is associated with acres and acres of rolling hills planted with grapes. Although before the wine boom, the region was primarily known for growing Plums and Gravestein Apples. Unfortunately the apple industry in the 21st century struggles to compete with other apple growing regions and imports from other countries, notably China.
   Thankfully, not all the apple trees have been replaced by grapes. There are still farmers who tend their orchards. The trees are planted in orderly designs that from a distance look like kaleidoscopes with wooden clapboard farmhouses placed at the center. It is easy to spot the abandoned orchards, weeds left untilled between the trees, their beauty not dimished by disheveled appearances.



   Driving daily by the beautiful orchards in varying stages of bloom prompted an undeniable hankering for apple crostata. Not really a proponent of unrequited love, I decided to buy some of those imported apples at the grocery store and make apple crostata right away. I will definitely make crostata again in the fall with in-season, farm stand apples. This crostata typically graces the dessert buffet for Halloween and gives competition to the more substantial apple pie for Thanksgiving.
   Many years ago, my sister Juliette began collecting vintage pie plates by Jeannette Royal. She buys the heavy ceramic deep dish pie plates inexpensively at thrift stores for about two dollars. The plates, with fruit pie recipes printed on the bottom, are considered collectable and sellers on e-bay list the plates in the $25 range. 
   It was not long before Juliette began supplying me with the versatile bake ware. I probably have six in my cupboard along with various shapes and sizes of Pyrex. I don't hesitate to use the Jeannette Royal to bake and transport desserts to parties instead of using disposable and flimsy aluminum trays. Likewise, the plates are also great as a gift with something special baked inside, a la Martha Stewart.


Apple Crostata

   I was inspired to make this recipe upon reading in Ina Garten's cookbook, The Barefoot Contessa Parties!, that apple crostata is her "absolute, all-time favorite dessert." I have adjusted her recipe slightly over the years to incorporate a few of Linda's baking tips. I also started baking the crostata in a pie plate because I find it easier to bake, display and, if needed, transport to a friend's house. 
   The crostata always garners rave review much to my delight. Not limited to just a dessert item (served with ice cream or vanilla spiked whipped cream), the crostata is also wonderful served as part of a breakfast buffet, or packed in my daughter's lunch for a midday snack.



Pastry:
Note: You can make this gluten-free by making our recipe for Absolutely Delicious All-Butter GF Pie Crust
3 cups all purpose flour
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
3/4 pound salted butter, very cold, each stick cut quickly into 8 or 10 chunks and then halved, alternatively if you want to use unsalted butter, add 3/4 teaspoon sea salt
1/2 cup ice water

Streusel:
1/2 cup all purpose flour
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/4 tsp ground allspice
1 stick butter, cut into 8 or 10 chunks
1/3 cup walnuts, optional

Filling:
1-1/2 pounds apples, preferably Granny Smith (about 6 apples)
1 Tbsp granulated sugar
1/4 tsp cinnamon
1 medium orange, zested

Embellishment:
a little milk

Procedure:
1. For the pastry: In a large glass measuring cup, add a handful or two of ice, and fill with water. Place 1/2 cup and tablespoon measurers within easy reach, or directly in the bowl along with the ice. Set aside.

Pastry is made with very cold butter and ice water.
2. In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade, combine the flour and sugar and pulse a few times to mix. With a sharp chef's knife, quickly cut the butter - each stick into 8 pieces - and add to the flour and sugar. Pulse about 15 times until the butter is the size of peas. With the motor running, quickly add 1/2 cup water through the feed tube. Add another 1 or 2 tablespoons, if necessary, through the feed tube, pulsing the dough with the blade until the dough just comes together.


3. Turn the dough out onto a well-floured board. Divide the dough evenly into two pieces. Flatten each piece of dough into a disk. Wrap each disk in plastic and refrigerate for at least one hour or up to four days depending upon your schedule. Alternatively, If you would like to freeze one of the disks for future use, wrap foil over the plastic wrap for added protection. Using a permanent marker, label the package and pop it in the freezer. It will keep well for a month or two. Simply defrost in the refrigerator overnight before proceeding with the recipe.

Work the ingredients with your fingers, until crumbles form.
4. For the streusel: In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade, combine the flour, sugar, salt, cinnamon, and allspice. Pulse to mix. Cut the butter into 8 pieces and add to the bowl. Pulse until the mixture is crumbly. Pour into a bowl and rub it with your fingers until the butter begins to warm and the mixture starts to hold together. If you are using walnuts, pulse in the food processor until finely chopped. Add to streusel mix, and stir together. Set aside.
5. To preheat the oven: Arrange two oven racks so one sits in the lower third of the oven and the other in the upper third. Place a cookie sheet on the top rack. Preheat oven to 400°F.
6. For one crostata filling (double the ingredients if making 2): Peel, core and quarter each apple. Cut each quarter in half and then into 3 chunks. Mix the 1 tablespoon of sugar and 1/4 teaspoon of cinnamon together. Add to prepared apples and toss. Add the orange zest and toss again.

I prefer using a pie plate to make the crostata, but you can use a parchment lined cookie sheet, too.
Brush the dough with milk for a golden crust. 
7. On a flat and floured surface, roll the pastry into a circle, between 1/8"-1/4" thick. Transfer it to a pie dish with the edges overhanging the sides. Working quickly so the pastry doesn't become too warm, add the apples - spreading with your fingers and slightly mounding in the middle - then cover with the streusel. Gently fold the border over the apples, pleating to make a circle. Don't fuss over it, crostatas are meant to have a rustic appearance.
8. Quickly brush the pastry with a little milk to aid with the browning in the oven. Place the crostata in the oven on the bottom rack, shielded by the cookie sheet on the rack above. We usually put the crostata on a cookie sheet as well, to make it easier to remove from the oven. Turn the heat down to 350°F and bake for 50-60 minutes, rotating the cookie sheet once after 30 minutes. Cool on a rack. Serve with ice cream, preferably homemade, or vanilla spiked whipped cream. Servings: 8-10

Thursday, May 6, 2010

Beef Fajitas

By Linda

  Yesterday was the 5th of May, and we celebrated Cinco de Mayo here at home like many do all over the country, whether your state shares a common border with Mexico or not. Being a Californian means that Cinco de Mayo is an opportunity not only to enjoy some of the delicious and spicy food that we have adopted from our neighbors that has become a regular feature on many of our menus at home, but also a chance for me to honor in my own small way the amazing friends I have made from all over Latin America as a result of working in the hospitality and retail businesses for so many years.
   Anyone who has worked in commercial kitchens in California (or most of the rest of the USA), knows that the backbone of the industry is supported by these kind and hard-working folks who never complain about the long hours and back-breaking work. I am proud to call them my friends.
   Mexican cuisine is ubiquitous in California, and our home is no exception. The refrigerator always has a dish of homemade Salsa Fresca, some avocados on the counter and some Jalapeno and Pasilla chiles hanging out in the vegetable crisper. The spice cabinet is full of dried chiles of all kinds and cans of Chipotles in Adobo Sauce are always on the shelf in the cupboard beside Las Palmas Enchilada Sauce and jars of Mole Negro.
  
Yesterday was also an opportunity to reflect upon the sad state of affairs concerning the recent legislation in the state of Arizona. It makes me sad and angry that the state has made this choice. I think the law is indeed "misguided" as Steve Nash of "Los Suns" was quoted as saying recently.
   Last night's menu included Beef Fajitas, homemade guacamole, hot corn tortillas and our requisite Margaritas. We often have fajitas, chicken or beef, because they are so darn easy and quick to make, and the flavors are simply delicioso!

Beef Fajitas
   When making beef fajitas, recipes usually call for flank or skirt steak. I don't know if you have seen the prices on flank steak recently, but at my butcher counter that sells the highest quality all-natural beef, flank steak is selling for around $15.99 per pound, making it not an economical choice for our budget. I recently discovered a cut called Flat iron steak, and it sells more in the $7.00 per pound range. It is very tender, and juicy.
   If you are lucky enough to have a full-service butcher counter at your market, just ask your butcher to cut it into strips for fajitas. Most recipes recommend marinating time for the meat, which I rarely have time to plan ahead for. I find that the fajitas do not suffer a bit skipping this step. Simply season your meat as you cook, and add lime juice at the very end.
   I hate to sound like Rachael Ray, but truly you will have an amazing dinner on the table in about 30 minutes with some help from your friendly meat guys. Fajitas can also be a great vegetarian dish. Just sauté the peppers and onions and pile high on those corn tortillas with lots of guacamole on the top. Lacto/ovo vegetarians will also enjoy cheese and sour cream.

Ingredients:
1 large jalapeno, roasted, skinned and chopped
1 large anaheim chile , roasted, skinned and cut into long, thin strips
1-1/2 pounds Flat iron steak
1 tsp chile seasoning mix
1 tsp minced garlic
1 large red bell pepper seeded and sliced into thin strips
1 large orange bell pepper seeded and sliced into thin strips
1 large yellow bell pepper seeded and cut into thin strips
1 large yellow onion, peeled, cut in half, and sliced into half moons
2 limes, freshly squeezed
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 package corn tortillas

Procedure:
1. Sauté beef on high heat. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and add teaspoon of chili mix. Add one teaspoon garlic and when meat is browned, transfer to bowl along with juices.

2. In the same pan, add 2 teaspoons oil, increase heat, and throw in mixed vegetables. Toss until onions begin to caramelize and peppers are tender. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Add meat to vegetables, without collected juices. Toss until well combined and heated through. In the meantime, heat corn tortillas. Remove beef and peppers from heat and add lime juice. Toss and serve immediately.

Guacamole

by Michelle

   This is a recipe for straight-forward guacamole without unnecessary fillers such as mayonnaise or cream cheese. There are folks out in the world that do not like cilantro (eh-hem, Linda), so we leave it out. Feel free to add a little of the greenery if you and yours are so inclined.

Guacamole


3 medium avocados, preferably Hass, pit removed, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice
2 medium limes, freshly squeezed
1 large jalapeno chile, stemmed, seeded and minced
1 medium tomato, seeded, chopped and drained of juice
1 teaspoon minced garlic
2 shakes Tobasco or similar sauce
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste


Procedure:
1. We do not advocate mashing avocados with a fork. Cut avocados into chunks and stir in additional ingredients, mixing lightly with a spoon.