Chocolate Dipped Macaroons

by Michelle

   I was running late in final preparations for a party, so I recruited my teenage daughter to help finish decorating cookies. She learned quickly that dipping a cookie in chocolate can be more difficult than it seems. First, there has to be enough volume. Secondly, the baker cannot try to fix mistakes as chocolate is fairly unforgiving and will show the slightest smudge. Double-dipping can result in a gloopey finish.
   In the end, we shrugged our shoulders, chalked it up to a learning experience, displayed the cookies on decorative plates and before we knew it every last one was gone. Lesson learned: don't worry when things look homemade. Flavor always wins and your guests will be impressed that you went the extra mile to make a confection from scratch. 

Chocolate Dipped Macaroons

   This recipe hails from the The Martha Stewart Living Cookbook (Clarkson/Potter Publishers, 2000). The cookie is noted for being an all-time reader favorite. I can assure you, these cookies live up to the hype. If you like Almond Joy candy bars, this is the cookie for you. Based upon our experience, we doubled the amount of melted chocolate originally called for in the recipe.

1-3/4 cups granulated sugar
5-1/4 cups unsweetened shredded coconut
7 large egg whites
pinch sea salt
2 Tbsps unsalted butter, melted
1 tsp pure almond extract
1 tsp pure vanilla extract
8 ounces semisweet chocolate
1/2 tsp vegetable shortening

Procedure:
1. In a large bowl, mix together the sugar, coconut, egg whites and salt. Add the butter and extracts, and combine well - preferably using your hands, the best mixing tools of all. Cover and refrigerate for an hour, or longer.
2. When ready to bake, preheat oven to 350°F, with the rack adjusted to the center. Line baking sheets with parchment paper. The cookies will be easier to form, if you wet your palms with cold water. Roll 1 tablespoon of the coconut mixture in your palms, squeezing to form a compact ball. Place the balls on the prepared cookie sheets, spacing about 1 to 1-1/2 inches apart. Working quickly, use two small spatulas to flatten one side at a time to form a pyramid shape.

3. Bake until the edges are golden brown, about 15 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack until cooled to room temperature. Trim the edges as necessary to preserve the triangular appearance of the macaroons.
4. In the top of a double boiler, melt the chocolate and shortening; stirring occasionally with a rubber spatula until smooth. Dip the top 1/2 inch of each pyramid in the melted chocolate. Transfer each dipped macaroon to a plate and allow chocolate to harden. Store in an airtight container up to 3 days.

Related Posts: Chinese New Year

Baked or Fried Egg Rolls

by Michelle

Fried Egg Rolls on the left and baked on the right.

Baked or Fried Egg Rolls

   The filling can be made one day ahead and cooled completely, uncovered, then chill, covered. Stir filling before filling wrappers. In lieu of the ground turkey or pork, you can use leftover roast pork, cut into 2-inch lengths, then cut lengthwise into very thin matchsticks. I often use turkey sausage, removed from the casings, for an extra flavor boost. This recipe is based on a recipe printed in Cooking Light magazine that was submitted by a reader.  
   Barbara Tropp wrote that once the filling is wrapped, egg rolls can be sealed airtight in a single layer and refrigerated up to 24 hours before baking or frying. The egg rolls can also be frozen up to a week, but must be partially thawed before baking or frying to avoid the wrapper getting soggy.
   Sliced shitake mushrooms added with the celery and carrot would be a nice addition, as would some chopped shrimp.
   The egg rolls make a great snack and are terrific served with Hot and Sour Soup and Dragon Noodles.

2 tsps vegetable oil

1 medium yellow onion, minced

1/2 to 1 cup celery, minced
1/2 head fennel, minced, optional
1 Tbsp minced ginger
4 large cloves garlic, minced
1 pound uncooked ground pork or turkey
1 medium head green cabbage, shredded (about 4 cups)
1 cup shredded carrot
about 2 Tbsps soy sauce
1/2 tsp black pepper
sea salt, to taste
14 egg roll wrappers
1 large egg white beaten
cooking spray
peanut or safflower oil, for deep frying; optional

Serve with dipping sauces:
Special Mustard Sauce
Thai Kitchen Sweet Chili Sauce
Spicy Citrus Chili Oil

Procedure:

1. In a heavy bottom soup pot, heat about 2 teaspoons of oil over medium-high heat. Add onion, celery, fennel, ginger and garlic, saute 5 minutes. Add ground turkey or pork; cook 5 to 10 minutes, crumbling the meat with a spatula or wooden spoon. Stir in cabbage, soy sauce and freshly ground black pepper. Cook another 3-5 minutes until cabbage is wilted. Add carrots, stir well and cook another 2 minutes.Taste, add sea salt to season, if necessary. Turn off heat and cool to room temperature. Proceed with filling wrappers, or chill filling for up to 24 hours.

2. To bake egg rolls: preheat oven to 425°F.
3. Working with one wrapper at a time, keeping remaining wrappers covered with plastic wrap, place 1 egg roll wrapper on a work surface with a corner pointing toward you, in a diamond shape. Spoon about 4 tablespoons (1/4 cup) into the center of wrapper. Fold lower corner of egg roll wrapper over filling. Fold in corners. Moisten top corner of wrapper with egg white; roll up jelly-roll style. Repeat procedure with remaining wrappers, filling and egg white.
4. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and spray well with cooking spray. Place egg rolls seam side down on the baking sheets and spray lightly with cooking spray. Bake in preheated oven for approximately 18-20 minutes, turning after 10 minutes, until golden brown. Serve immediately alongside favorite dipping sauces.
5. To fry egg rolls: in a deep and heavy pot add oil to a depth of 2-inches. Clip a deep-fry thermometer on the rim. Heat the oil to 350°F. An egg roll should bubble immediately upon contact with the hot oil. Adjust the heat as needed to maintain the temperature at a steady 350°F. The egg rolls will sink, and within a few seconds, rise to the top with a tickle of bubbles. Add only as many egg rolls that can fit comfortably in the oil without drastically dropping the temperature. Fry each until golden, 3 to 4 minutes, turning carefully for even browning. With tongs or a mesh spoon, remove the egg rolls to a triple layer of paper towels to drain. Before frying the next batch, wait for the oil to come back to 350°F. Serve immediately alongside favorite dipping sauces.

Special Mustard Sauce

by Michelle

   When is comes to dining out, I have come to the conclusion that my family is in a rut. Once a week, we quickly rule out restaurant options based upon prior experience: too loud, too expensive, food is so-so, etc. until once again we find ourselves sharing Chicken Caesar Salad, lasagna and pizza at Sauce and then walking 15 paces next door to share a medium gelato at Frost. In the final analysis, we have a lovely time, but it does become a bit redundant week after week.
   Occasionally, my daughter will have a sleep-over at a friend's house, leaving Jay and me with a welcome date night. Funny thing is that we usually end up a P.F. Chang's - double rut! We like to dine sitting at the bar, invariably chatting with the bartenders, moving from drinks to an appetizer and then sharing an entree or two. Without fail, I always order the Hot and Sour Soup and The Salt and Pepper Prawns with Special Mustard Sauce. I swear I could drink that mustard sauce by the gallon if I ever had the opportunity.

   On one of Linda's visits, we found ourselves at P.F. Chang's for lunch. Between the two of us, I thought we had cajoled the waiter into giving us the recipe. Mr. Helpful returned to the table with recipe in hand, but he would only give us the ingredients, in order of appearance, and not the measurements. On the back of the receipt, I jotted down: soy, mustard, rice vinegar, lime juice, yellow onion, chili, sugar. At least it was something to go on.
   On my next trip, I asked the bartender for a take home sauce. With my sample for comparison, I got to work in the kitchen mixing and tasting until I was able to approximate the recipe. It's not identical, but it is very close. I used two of Barbara Tropp's mustard sauce recipes from China Moon Cookbook (Workman Publishing 1992) as a springboard for this recipe along with the ingredient teaser list from the waiter. Good thing I'm using my powers for good instead of evil.
    I love dunking shrimp with the sauce, or drizzling over crabcakes. It's mighty fine with eggrolls too. I use my own little dish so I can double-dip (Mama raised me right). Now I can make the sauce by the gallon and guzzle it too. 

Special Mustard Sauce

   The pickled ginger juice called for in the recipe is an infusion of unseasoned rice vinegar, apple cider vinegar, distilled white vinegar, granulated sugar, salt and fresh ginger. As an alternative you could use a combination of the vinegars and add a touch more sugar. If you use a blender, you could add a teaspoon or two of minced ginger. Your best bet is to make the Pickled Ginger recipe.
   I have always wanted to try Black Soy Sauce in the recipe in lieu of the regular soy or Tamari, but have not as of yet. The exchange would give the sauce a little more body. Check-out my Celebrating Chinese New Year post for explanation of unusual ingredients.

1/4 cup plus 2 tsps Dijon mustard
1/2 cup juice from Pickled Ginger recipe
1/4 cup vegetable or peanut oil
1/4 cup Kadoya sesame oil or Ma-La oil
3 Tbsps soy sauce or Tamari
3 Tbsps granulated sugar
1 Tbsp freshly squeezed lime juice
1 tsp sea salt
1 tsp Sambal Oelek

1. Either whisk all the ingredients together in a bowl, or mix all the ingredients in a blender while drizzling the oil through the feed tube until emulsified. I like to make this sauce at least a few hours ahead of serving, or a day in advance, to let the flavors meld. Keep refrigerated.

Dragon Noodles

by Michelle

   If you are interested in ethnic cuisines this will be a fun recipe for you to make because the building blocks will take you on an adventure in the kitchen. The key components of the hot, sweet, salty and sour sauce - the infused oils, pickled ginger and ginger syrup - can all be made weeks in advance of the final preparation and will easily last in the refrigerator for months. 

   For added convenience, the dressing for the noodles is best when made a day or two in advance to allow all the flavors to meld. Finally, the sauced noodles can be made the night before or morning of the party to fully absorb the dressing before adding the final garnishes.

   The noodles are an enticing part of an Asian inspired menu or buffet and will complement everything on your plate from pickled shrimp to pork tenderloin to egg rolls. Pile the noodles high in a large shallow bowl or beveled platter alongside bowls of unsalted roasted peanuts and cilantro leaves.

   Leftover noodles are terrific as part of a Thai Salad with barbecued beef or rotisserie chicken with avocado, mango, fresh greens and herbs tossed in a lime and chile vinaigrette, similar to the delicious "plate of inspiration" served at Houston's Restaurant in Phoenix. 

Double-click image to enlarge.

   One year, just after the onset of crab season, Linda and I served our friends the Dragon Noodles as part of an Asian inspired holiday Seafood Fest with Shrimp Cocktails and Baked Spicy Crab Cakes paired with Sweet Chili and Special Mustard Dipping Sauces and marinated cucumbers. Recalling that happy memory, I think it just might be time to make the meal again.

   You can also whip up batches of the sauce for holiday and hostess gifts, packaged in French Working glasses with hand printed labels. With a ribbon, attach printed instructions on how to garnish and serve. We think you and yours will like the noodles, too. Looking forward to your feedback.


Dragon Noodle Sauce is on the left with freshly dressed noodles in the cooking pan.

Dragon Noodles

   For a feast, consider serving the noodles with Salt and Pepper Shrimp or Crab Cakes with Special Mustard Sauce, Oven-Baked Egg Rolls and Quick Cucumber Pickles. My post on Celebrating Chinese New Year explains (in quite some detail proving once again that I am my father's daughter) the homemade and store bought Asian pantry items in the ingredients list. For a fun twist, serve Mai Tais or Pineapple Martinis with the noodles.
   I like to add a fair amount of lemon zest to the noodles as a garnish. Leading up to the event, every time I use a lemon, I zest it first before juicing. Store the peel in a fold of waxed paper and then wrap in aluminum foil for extra protection. The zest can be used directly from the freezer.
   The sauce below makes enough to cover four pounds of noodles. That's a really big party. Of course, you can divide the recipe in half or go ahead and make the full amount with the proactive plan of storing the extra sauce in the refrigerator for future snappy weeknight meals with leftovers at the ready for packable lunches in the following days. Beats a soggy sandwich, that's for sure!

Sauce:
1 cup Ma-La Oil
1 cup Ginger Syrup
3/4 cup ketchup
1/2 cup + 2 Tbsps black soy sauce
1/2 cup + 2 Tbsps unseasoned rice vinegar, preferably Marukan or Mitsukan brands
1/2 cup juice from Pickled Ginger
1/4 cup + 2 Tbsps freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/4 cup Spicy Citrus Chili Oil

1/4 cup cider vinegar

1 Tbsp "goop" from Spicy Citrus Chili Oil
1 Tbsp Thai Kitchen Roasted Chili Sauce
2 teaspoons sea salt

Left: Spicy Citrus Chili Oil, and Right: Ma-La Oil

Noodles:
2 pounds spaghetti
grated zest of 2 scrubbed lemons or more, as needed
3/4 cup thinly sliced green and white scallion rings
1/4 cup black sesame seeds, toasted
grated red radish, for garnish
green and white scallion rings, for garnish
toasted black sesame seeds, for garnish

On the side:
roasted salted peanuts
cilantro leaves

Procedure:
1. Combine all the sauce ingredients, whisking vigorously to blend. Set aside, or refrigerate until ready to use if making a day or two in advance.
2. Cook the noodles to "al dente" in salted, boiling water, according to package directions. Drain the noodles, giving the colander several good shakes. Transfer to large bowl and stir in to the noodles about 2 cups of the sauce. Let sit for 10 minutes so the noodles can absorb the liquid.
3. Taste the noodles. If they have absorbed the sauce and seem dry, add a bit more dressing to moisten and toss again. Add the lemon zest and black sesame seeds. Toss well to mix. Taste and adjust with more dressing and/or lemon zest if needed. The taste should be bright and sparkly. At this point, the noodles may be sealed and refrigerated for up to a day. (If you are working in advance, you might like to wait until serving to add the rest of the garnishes so the vegetables are fresh and crunchy.) For best flavor, bring to room temperature or serve only slightly chilled.
4. To serve, mound the noodles in a bowl, stir in grated carrot and radishes. Decorate the top with additional black sesame seeds and sliced scallions. Tuck in a pronged pasta spoon for easier lifting of helpings. Let guests add peanuts and cilantro to individual servings. 

Celebrating Chinese New Year

by Michelle

   "Sure it takes times to cook, but it takes time to live! What other activity in the sphere of human pleasure makes our dwellings aromatic and brings friends and family to our table? If we value these aspects of our lives, then we cook. If we savor the food we prepare and the environment in which it is presented, then we dine."  ~Barbara Tropp

   As February approaches, the month will bring several opportunities to gather with family and friends to celebrate - the fun quotient bolstered with  the accompaniment of great food and specialty drinks. Chinese New Year, ushering in the year of the rabbit, will be celebrated far and wide on Thursday, February 3rd. Quickly thereafter, Super Bowl XLV will reign supreme on Sunday the 6th. Mid month the celebration of love and affection, better known as Valentine's Day will have some tittering in anticipation and others not so much. The month will finish with the Academy Awards telecast on Sunday, the 27th. With a long winter underway, there is no better way to heat up a social calendar than to create a lively atmosphere, invite over your favorite people and eat spicy food together.

   One of my favorite annual events to host is an "Asian Fusion" potluck. Friends will ask excitedly if I plan to make Dragon Noodles and my answer is always yes. Everyone loves the chili oil infused noodles garnished with lemon zest, scallion rings, shredded carrot and red radishes and roasted black sesame seeds. I like to serve the noodles with Salt and Pepper Prawns and Special Mustard Sauce and Easy Cucumber Pickles. I also like to round ot the menu by making Oven-Baked Egg Rolls with Sweet Chili Sauce for dippping. The egg rolls are also really tasty dipped in the Special Mustard Sauce. Wash it all down with a Mai Tai, Champagne, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir or a good beer and all will be right in the world - at least for one leisurely meal. Homemade Shirley Temple's, renamed Pomegranate Fizzes (so it is friendly to one and all, including the boys) or Gingerale work well for non-alcoholic beverages as well as Martinelli's Apple Cider.

  Although I own many cookbooks that cover countries and regions across Asia, the two books that I return to constantly are authored by the late Barbara Tropp and are focused on China: The Modern Art of Chinese Cooking (William Morrow 1982) and China Moon Cookbook (Workman Publishing 1992). Many have called her the Julia Child of Chinese cooking. When I read through these books, I find inspiration on every page. Our Dragon Noodle recipe is built upon Barbara's recipe of the same name.
   In the China Moon Cookbook, Barbara advocates getting started with the recipes in her book by making a handful of pantry items that store well in the refrigerator, or in a kitchen cabinet, and are then at the ready to provide a flavor boost to many meals. Barbara's list differs somewhat from mine, but here are the homemade items that I always have on hand:

Spicy Citrus Chili Oil
Ma-La Oil
Pickled Ginger
Ginger Syrup
Quick Pickle Marinade
Curry Powder
Ten-Spice Powder





Store bought pantry items:
Black Soy Sauce, preferably Pearl River Bridge brand -  An aged, concentrated soy sauce that is made with molasses.
Mushroom Soy Sauce, preferably Pearl River Bridge brand - A "meaty" soy sauce flavored with dried Chinese black mushrooms and is great for sauces and stews.
Soy Sauce, preferably Pearl River Bridge brand - Tamari, Japanese soy sauce, is a satisfying alternative.
Chinese Black Vinegar or Balsamic Vinegar - The two can be used interchangeably in recipes.
Cider Vinegar - I like to use raw and unfiltered Orangic Apple Cider Vinegar with "The Mother" by Bragg
Distilled White Vinegar, preferably Heinz brand
Unseasoned Rice Vinegar, preferably Marukan or Mitsukan brands - As Barbara observed, rice vinegar is "less harsh than distilled white vinegar and less sweet than cider vinegar, it is a pleasant in-between."
Oil for High Heat Cooking - Choose between corn, peanut and safflower oil.
Sesame Oil, preferably Kadoya brand - This is a potent, dark sesame oil and is a seasoning oil and not a cooking oil.
Dried Crushed Red Chili Flakes - The flakes should be bright red and not brown from age.
Roasted Black Sesame Seeds - Store both white and black sesame seeds in the freezer to prevent spoilage.
Star Anise - Buy the whole spice over pre-ground.
Szechwan Peppercorns - The open pod is used in cooking with the thorns and small bitter black seeds discarded.
Italian-style pasta, such as Spaghetti - Of course, fresh egg noodles are better, but the dried spaghetti has shelf life.
Glass Noodles - Used primarily in soups.
Rice Noodles - Best for frying and also in some noodle dishes.

Salted Black Beans, preferably Pearl River Bridge brand - Do not wash the beans before using.
Kosher Salt, preferably Diamond brand
Sugar - Stock-up and both white and brown sugar. I use C and H brand.
Sea Salt - Purchase sea salt that is hand harvested with an ingredients list that includes trace minerals.
Fish Sauce - I use Thai Kitchen brand.
Hoisin and Plum Sauces - Since using canned sauces can be tricky - many are filled with preservatives - I look for prepared sauces on the shelves at Whole Foods Market.
Sweet Red Chili Sauce, preferably Thai Kitchen Brand - Dipping and all-purpose sauce. I have even used it as a glaze on a spiral-cut ham.
Dijon Mustard - I use Dijon mustard in lieu of the powdered mustards available in the spice section.
Sambal Oelek - Fresh chili paste.
Sriracha Chili Sauce - A Thai style chili sauce.
Roasted Red Chili Paste, preferably Thai Kitchen brand
Organic Peanut Butter
Tamarind - The pulp is sold in 14-oz blocks.
Organic Vegetable Broth and Chicken Stock
Unsweeted Coconut Milk - I use Thai Kitchen with success.

Spices, in addition to Szechwan Peppercorns and Whole Star Anise (listed above):

Black Peppercorns

Cayenne Pepper

Cardamom Seeds

Coriander seeds

Whole Cloves
Cumin Seeds
Ground Cinnamon and Sticks
Fennel Seeds
Fenugreek Seeds
Ground Ginger
TurmericYellow Mustard Seeds

Fresh ingredients:

Garlic

Ginger

Lemongrass
Lemons
Limes
Oranges
Scallions

  

   Please do not let the list be daunting. The homemade pantry items are easy to prepare and when stored properly, last a long time without spoiling. Similar to Barbara's experience that she describes in the China Moon Cookbook, I too felt as if I had "grown a foot as a cook" after making the infused oils for the first time. I excitedly relayed my experience to my sisters and we are all now huge fans.
   The infused oils, pickled ginger, ginger syrup, spices and the Dragon Noodle sauce all make wonderful gifts. I store these items in tightly sealed glass jars - usually French Working Glasses - for personal use and to give as gifts. Unique handmade labels identify each jar and I pair the items with the China Moon Cookbook for a special birthday or Christmas present.
   Once you get going with these pantry items, you will find new and innovative ways to use them in your cooking. I had an ah-ha moment and began using the ginger syrup as a base for homemade gingerale. The pickled ginger, when thinly slivered, is an excellent addition to Asian flavored coleslaw or to top housemade sushi and rolls or to add to the pickled vegetables for Bánh Mì, to die for Vietnamese sandwiches. The curry powder is the best I've ever tasted and is exceptional in a Chicken Curry Salad that I like to make year round, but especially in the spring. The infused oils season everything from salad dressings, to sauces, to stir-fries - the possibilities are endless.
   To make the Dragon Noodles in a few weeks for your next special occasion, whether it's Chinese New Year, Superbowl, Valentine's Day or the Academy Awards, get started now by preparing and storing: Pickled Ginger, Ginger Syrup, Ma-La Oil, and Spicy Citrus Chili Oil.

Spicy Citrus Chili Oil

by Michelle

   From 1986 to 1997, Barbara Tropp owned San Francisco restaurant China Moon Café. She wrote two incredible cookbooks, The Modern Art of Chinese Cooking (William Morrow 1982), and The China Moon Cookbook (Workman Publishing 1992), two of my cherished reference books on the subject of Chinese cooking.

   Spicy Citrus Chile Oil and Ma-La Oil, are pantry staples in our kitchens. Both recipes are adapted from her latter cookbook and is a marrying of the Chili-Lemon and Chili-Orange oil recipes. In her original recipe, Barbara wrote, "Choose oranges or lemons with unblemished skins that have been kept as free as possible of waxes and dyes, then wash them carefully with a light liquid detergent, warm water, and an abrasive sponge. The effort may seem kooky, but it makes a difference. So too will a sharp vegetable peeler that will pare off the flavorful skin (zest) and not the bitter white pith." I have also grated the zest with a microplane, which I find easier than peeling and mincing.

    More often than not, on the days that I make the infused oils, I also find myself making Pickled Ginger and then Ginger Syrup with the ginger scraps: cast-off peels and nubs. All of these ingredients go into making our sought after Dragon Noodles.

Spicy Citrus Chili Oil

2 cup high-heat oil, such as corn, peanut or safflower
Finely minced zest of 3 large oranges, or 6 large lemons, preferably organic and unblemished
1/2 cup fresh, pungent dried red chili flakes
3 Tbsps Chinese preserved black beans, not rinsed, coarsely chopped
2 large garlic cloves, lightly smashed and peeled
1 Tbsp Szechwan brown peppercorn pods, if necessary thorns and black seeds removed
1/4 cup Japanese sesame oil, Kadoya brand preferred
2 Tbsps ginger root, finely julienned
1/3 cup scallions, white and green, sliced into thin rings
2 plump stalks fresh lemon grass, pounded, then cut crosswise into 3-inch lengths

Specialty Equipment:
Stainless Steel Sauce Pan
Stainless Steel or Wood Spoon
Candy Thermometer

Procedure:
1. Using a stainless steel knife, or with one made from a nonreactive carbon alloy, mince the citrus peel, chop the fresh ingredients and combine with the rest of the ingredients in a heavy, non aluminum 1-1/2 quart saucepan. Clip a candy thermometer on the rim of the pot. Over low heat, bring the mixture to 220°F, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon or a wooden chopstick or a spoon made of stainless steel - absolutely no aluminum utensils! Let the oil infuse for about 20 minutes, keeping the temperature stable, checking to ensure the temperature does not rise above 235°F. Remove from the heat and let stand until cool.
2. Remove and discard the lemon grass stalks. Scrape the oil and seasonings (fondly called "goop") into an impeccably clean glass jar, with tightly sealing lid at room temperature, or if you live in a hotter climate, in the refrigerator. Or store the oil in a plastic squeeze bottle and the goop in a jar with enough oil to cover. The oil may turn cloudy, but its flavor will not be affected.
3. If made and stored properly the oil will keep for ages. If mold develops from a contaminated utensil or it smells off owing to age or heat, toss it out and make a fresh batch. Yield: 2-1/2 cups Servings: 40


On the Left: Ma-La Oil and On the Right: Spicy Citrus Chili Oil

Ma-La Oil

by Michelle

   The San Francisco Chronicle wrote, "Barbara Tropp is the Julia Child of the Chinese kitchen." Indeed. Barbara was a national known authority and left an indelible mark in the world of cooking. She is greatly missed. This recipe is from China Moon Cookbook by Barbara Tropp (Workman Publishing 1992).

Ma-La Oil

1 cup high-heat oil, such as corn, peanut or safflower
1 cup Japanese sesame oil, preferably Kadoya brand
1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions, sliced into green and white rings
15 coins quarter-sized, fresh ginger, smashed
2 Tbsps Szechwan peppercorns, free of any thorns and black seeds discarded
2 Tbsps shockingly pungent dried red chili flakes
2 tsps kosher salt, preferably Diamond brand

Special Equipment:
Non-aluminum saucepan
Stainless steel or wooden spoon
Candy thermometer

Procedure:

1. Using a stainless steel knife, or with one made from a nonreactive carbon alloy, chop the in fresh ingredients and combine with the oil, peppercorns, chili flakes and salt in a heavy, non aluminum 1-1/2 quart saucepan. Clip a candy thermometer on the rim of the pot. Over low heat, bring the mixture to 220°F, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon or a wooden chopstick or a spoon made of stainless steel - absolutely no aluminum utensils! Let the oil infuse for about 20 minutes, checking to ensure the temperature does not rise above 235°F. Remove from the heat and let stand until cool.

2. Strain the oil without pressing on the solids; then discard the solids. Store the oil in an impeccably clean glass jar with tightly sealing lid at room temperature, or if you live in a hotter climate, in the refrigerator. The oil may turn cloudy, but its flavor will not be affected.

3. If made and stored properly the oil will keep for ages. If mold develops from a contaminated utensil or it smells off owing to age or heat, toss it out and make a fresh batch. 
Yield: 2-1/2 cups Servings: 40

Pickled Ginger

by Michelle

   The best and most effecient way to obtain paper-thin slices of ginger is to employ a mandoline. This condiment makes a great addition to many dishes and the juice is used in dressings and sauces, such as my Special Mustard Sauce. The ginger will last a very long time in the refrigerator. This recipe is from China Moon Cookbook by Barbara Tropp (Workman Publishing 1992).

Pickled Ginger

1 pound peeled very fresh ginger, sliced crosswise against the grain into paper-thin coins (reserve peels to make Ginger Syrup)
2-2/3 cups unseasoned Japanese rice vinegar, preferably Marukan brand
6 Tbsps cider vinegar, preferably Bragg Apple Cider Vinegar with The Mother
1/4 cup distilled white vinegar, preferably Heinz brand
1 cup plus 2 Tbsps granulated sugar
2 Tablespoon plus 2 tsps kosher salt, preferably Diamond brand

Procedure:
1. Cover the ginger with boiling water. Let stand for 2 minutes, then drain in a colander. Put the ginger in a large, impeccably clean glass jar(s), such as French Working Glass, or plastic container(s) with tight fitting lids.
2. Combine the remaining ingredients in a non-aluminum pot. Stir over moderate heat just until the sugar and salt dissolve. Pour over the ginger. Make sure that the ginger is covered with the liquid.
3. Let cool completely, then cover and refrigerate for at least 24 hours before using. Yield: makes 1-1/2 cups ginger and 4 cups juice.

Ginger Syrup

by Michelle

   Use the scraps leftover from making Pickled Ginger to make Ginger Syrup. I adjust the measurements in relation to the amount of scraps that I have. The ginger syrup is an ingredient in our Dragon Noodle Sauce and is the basis for making homemade gingerale. It's also a specialty item in a number of cocktails and to sweeten iced tea. If it is in my refrigerator, I always find a use for it.

   Sometimes, I make the ginger syrup with just the scraps, water and sugar. Other times, I infuse the mix with the flavors of lemongrass, cracked whole nutmeg, vanilla beans, star anise, lemon peel and jalapeno.

Ginger Syrup

Base ingredients:

2 cups water

2 cups granulated sugar

2 cups ginger scraps, peels and nubs

Optional add-ins:

1 to 2 lemongrass, pounded

1 whole nutmeg, cracked

1 vanilla bean, cut in half

2 star anise

peel of one lemon, minced

1 jalapeno, seeds removed and discarded

Procedure:

1. Mince ginger nubs. If using, cut vanilla bean in half, scrape inside and then chop the vanilla bean; reserve and then add it all to the sugar syrup, when ready.

2. In a stainless steel saucepan, combine water and sugar and stir over medium heat until sugar is dissolved. Add ginger scraps and any additional ingredients from the list of add-ins. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low, and let mixture bubble for about 10 minutes. Turn off heat, and let sit for several hours or overnight. Strain syrup into a glass jar and discard solids.

3. Refrigerate until ready to use. 

Quick Cucumber Pickles and Marinade for Vegetables

by Michelle

   In the summer, my mother and grandmother would quickly prepare pickled cucumbers. The peeled and thinly sliced cucumbers would float in a red wine marinade. As a child, I would gorge on the pickles until I felt as if my stomach would burst.
   When I discovered Chicken Satay with Spicy Peanut Sauce and Cucumber Salad, it was an instant nirvana sensation. Fast forward a decade and some change, and I was biting into my first Bánh Mì Vietnamese sandwich - a soft baguette smeared with pâté and piled with thin slices of meat and topped with a mélange of pickled vegetables usually comprised of cucumbers, carrots, daikon radish, chile pepppers, and cilantro. I also like to add thinly sliced scallions or rings of shallots and will sometimes exchange parsley for the cilantro and red radishes for the daikon depending upon what's on hand in the refrigerator.
   Somewhere along the line I began using the cucumber pickle marinade for the vegetables mix and it's been sandwich happiness ever since. I like to make large batches of the marinade and store in the refrigerator. It's not necessary to completely cover the vegetables with the marinade, if you are willing to give the vegetables a gentle stir now and again until serving time. Generally, the vegetables marinate very quickly within a handful of minutes and are a great side to Dragon Noodles or just about any sandwich.

Quick Cucumber Pickles and Marinade for Vegetables

   This recipe hails from Real Thai by Nancie McDermott (Chronicle Books 1992). Pick-up the book to try the most excellent Satay recipe.

1 cup white vinegar
1 cup water
1 cup sugar
2 tsps sea salt
English cucumbers, peeled or unpeeled, cut in half and sliced cross-wise, about 1/4-inch thick

1. Combine all the ingredients in a saucepan over medium heat. Stir until the sugar and salt is dissolved. Set aside until marinade is at room temperature, then refrigerate and use as needed for the amount of cucumbers or vegetables you have prepared.

Curry Powder

by Michelle

Curry Powder

   Over the years, I searched high and low for a great curry powder. This is my favorite. Use it in any recipe that calls for curry powder. If you use an over-the-counter blend look for one where the ingredients list starts with coriander. Tumeric, although healthful and pleasing in color, is a one-dimensional spice, and should not be the most prominent spice used in a curry blend. This recipe is from the China Moon Cookbook by Barbara Tropp (Workman Publishing 1992).

Whole Spices:
2 Tbsps coriander seeds
1 Tbsp fennel seeds
1 Tbsp cardamom seeds
1 Tbsp cumin seeds
1 Tbsp yellow mustard seeds
2 tsps fenugreek seeds
1 tsp whole cloves
1/2 cinnamon stick, 1-1/2 inches long
1/2 tsp black peppercorns

Ground Spices:
3/4 tsp cayenne pepper
1 Tbsp ground ginger
2 Tbsps + 1 tsp turmeric

Procedure:
1. Toast the whole spices together in a small dry skillet over medium-low heat, stirring and adjusting the heat as necessary so that the spices toast without burning. Stir until the spices are fully fragrant and the lighter-colored spices are lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in the ground spices. Turn off the heat and scrape the spices into a bowl. Let cool for a few minutes.
2. Using a spice grinder or a clean coffee grinder, grind the mixture in batches until fine. Store in a tightly covered glass jar. Yield: 1 cup
 

Post-grinding.



Ten-Spice Powder

by Michelle

Ten-Spice Powder

   Please do not even consider using store bought Five-Spice Powder, not when this is so easy to make, and so much more flavorful. This recipe is from the China Moon Cookbook by Barbara Tropp (Workman Publishing 1992).

Whole Spices:
2 Tbsps fennel seeds
10 star anise, broken into points
2 Tbsps Szechwan peppercorn pods, thorns and black seeds removed and discarded
1 Tbsp coriander seeds
1 tsp whole cloves
1 tsp cumin seeds
1-1/2 tsps black peppercorns

Ground Spices:
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp ground ginger
1/2 tsp turmeric

Procedure:
1. Toast the whole spices together in a small dry skill over a medium-low heat, stirring and adjusting the heat, if necessary so the spices toast without burning. Stir until the mixture is fragrant and the fennel seeds are lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in the ground spices. Remove from heat, and transfer mixture to a bowl - let cool for a few minutes.
2. Using a spice grinder, or clean coffee grinder, grind the mixture in batches until fine. Store in a tightly sealed jar.

Mai Tais for a Crowd

by Michelle

   Greetings 2011. Nice to meet you. Our relationship is off to a good start. We met at a party. We had Mai Tais. Fortunately, the morning after, we can still remember each other's names. I get a feeling that we're going to be really great friends. I hope we will have a lot of fun together. Let's go out to eat, or stay in, whatever you want to do. I like to travel, meet new people, dive into new experiences. I hope you feel the same way because I think we could have a blast. I know it's early in our relationship, and I don't really want to make too many commitments, but hey, sometimes you just have to throw caution to the wind and simply say yes. And right now, I think I'll say yes to another Mai Tai. Want one, too?

Mai Tais for a Crowd

   This is a recipe that I picked up along the way and put in my files. Unfortunately, I don't know the author, but I can say with some assurance that we like to go to the same parties.
  The original recipe doesn't name names on the rums, so I consulted my favorite tropical drinks book, "Sippin' Safari" by mixologist Jeff Berry, also known as Beachbum Berry. I have a feeling we could be friends and perhaps one of these days we'll make each other's acquaintance. "BB" is the best source I know for tropical drink recipes and Tiki culture lore. Not only is the book filled with tasty tropical drinks, but it is an absolutely fascinating read as well.
   This recipe makes one gallon of Mai Tais, about 32 servings. I make the concoction a day ahead and refrigerate until very cold. Serve over ice cubes with a freshly cut slice of pineapple and an all natural maraschino cherry. I recommend cherries by The Silver Palate that omit red dye and preservatives. Yep, those kind of maraschino cherries actually exist - as nature intended. A good source is Whole Foods Market.

2 cups Cruzan aged rum
1 cup Myers's dark rum
1 cup Bacardi 151 proof rum
1 cup orange Curacao (not the blue stuff)
1 cup Orgeat syrup (almond flavored sugar syrup)
1 cup simple syrup
the juice of 10 limes (about 1-3/4 cups)
1/2 gallon fresh orange juice (preferrably not from concentrate)

1. In  large glass canister, combine all the ingredients. Stir and top off with orange juice. Enjoy and make a new friend!